Exploring Waterford & Beyond

My time in Waterford wasn't all spent milking cows. I managed to get out and explore a decent amount of the city and nearby scenery. Unlike the North and West of Ireland where rainfall is heavy and frequent, the Southeast has the reputation of being the sunniest area on the Emerald Isle. Of course there were rainy days too but on the days when the sun was a friend and not a foe, County Waterford was stunning. 

Waterford City

Waterford Treasures: Reginald's Tower, The Medieval Museum, & Bishop's Palace

Waterford is the oldest city in Ireland and their museums are quick to expand on that fact. Since the vikings invaded around the 9th century, they made Waterford their trading settlement of choice. Plenty of interesting artifacts can be seen at Reginald's Tower, the oldest building in town and a defense tower built to keep out the Anglo-Norman invaders. 

A viking ship replica outside of Reginald's Tower

Next in the line of history was the Medieval Museum, which provided excellent information on how the city developed throughout the Middle Ages. There were several exhibits that had genuine treasures from this period. One of them were golden vests that had been hidden in the floor of Waterford's Catholic Church during a raid. They were found years later during the demolition of the church by John Roberts, who would later be known for building both the Protestant and Catholic Church in Waterford.

The last place I explored in search of Waterford history was Bishop's Palace. Wandering through each room I was able to gain a sense of life for the well off during the Georgian period. Fine china, polished silver, and helpers stirring about marked the daily life of the Bishop who was the figurehead of the city. My favorite thing about this place was examing the letters the Bishop wrote to his constituents, one of which granted the permission for marriage between a Catholic and Protestant. The palace also holds the oldest piece of Waterford crystal.

Behind my head, the seal of Waterford is engraved on this seat

Waterford Crystal Factory

The big claim to fame for Waterford is the exquisite crystal produced here. Since the Georgian period, this crystal has been a status symbol for those in the elite who can afford such a luxury.

A Waterford Crystal version of the Celtic harp

The process to create such perfect structures is done through several stages. Every person who works in the factory began as an apprentice and trained for several years. To make a piece of crystal, the molder must first carve the wanted shape of the piece out of wood. There are standard and custom molds, both large and small.

 

The most fascinating part of the process: handling and blowing molten crystal

Then molten crystal is collected from the oven and expanded into the mold by a blower. Watching this happen in live action was almost hypnotizing as the worker handled the molten crystal with such grace and ease. After this stage the piece is inspected for quality and then brought to a worker who will either smooth out the edges or destroy it if there is even the slightest imperfection.

Replica of the Waterford Crystal presented to President Obama on St. Patrick's Day 2012 - a specially designed one is presented every year

A cutter will then take the piece and add designs that have been planned and arranged. After this the piece may be completed and only in need of a polish or it will go to an engraver who uses precise artistic skill to complete the piece.

Replica of a viking ship - so Waterford!

The work done at the factory is truly of art. They workers are talented craftsmen who produce incredible pieces. At one time the factory employed around 3,000 people. Because of the economic downturn, the factory closed in 2009. Thankfully it opened again a few years ago but employs only a few hundred today.

I enjoyed exploring the history of this new place and their famous factory but even more than that, I loved experiencing the way Waterford exists today. Some roads narrow and hidden, others laid out clearly, it was nice just to meander and stumble upon new sights.

The Vikings still maintain a presence in Waterford

The charm that makes Ireland so appealing to foreigners is alive and well in Waterford. There were always people to chat with, whether it be at the pub or on the street. No matter where I was within the city, I always felt welcome.

The friendliest pint of Guinness I've ever had, courtesy of the owner of Jordan's Pub

Tramore

As soon as I hopped off the bus, I headed straight for the beach with a quick stop for fish & chips on the way. The day I visited Tramore the sun was shining and though it was a bit chilly, it was absolutely lovely. Having the time to just sit down and look across the Irish Sea with no cares and no stress felt like such a rare treat. I spent hours on this beach just sitting, walking, and listening to Astral Weeks by Van Morrison on repeat. It was a perfect day. By the time the sun was setting I still didn't want to leave. I was in too much of a beautiful beach trance. 

Lovely reflections on Tramore Beach

Tramore's cliffs stretching out into the Irish sea

Dunmore East

Cliffs, beaches, and cottages with thatched roofs, Dunmore East did not disappoint. Despite the sun being amiss, the landscape was fascinating. It took me a few hours to walk around and explore the different edges, some jagged and dark, others rust colored and moss covered. Something about the scenery here and the gray skies inspired me to spend most of my time writing. I wandered down to a cliff's edge and wrote down different thoughts and poems. Unlike Tramore where I felt soothed, I felt oddly powerful here. I think it must have been the waves crashing on the cliffs' edges or maybe it was the sight of a lone lighthouse in the murky distance. Whatever it was this place had an unique and oddly overwhelming spirit.

Different cliffs connect Dunmore East to the Irish Sea

The village became even more charming upon the sight of thatched cottages. This roofing style was once very common to Irish houses but is very hard to maintain nowadays. There are still villages, like Dunmore East, where they can be found and admired in all of their whimsical glory.

A thatched cottage in Dunmore East

Wexford

A snapshot of Wexford in passing 

Irish National Heritage Park

As you can already tell from my time in Waterford, I like to learn about history. That's why I was set on visiting the Irish National Heritage Park near Wexford Town. The park is set up so that you walk through 9,000 years of history including the prehistoric period, early Christianity, and the Age of Invasion. 

Replicas of the earliest settlements known to Ireland

Walking through the settlements, it becomes possible to imagine what life was like for the ancestors of this land. They were hunters and gathers. They were farmers and discoverers. It was up to them to find a way to provide and despite whatever resources they lacked, they always found a way.

Replicas of Neolithic settlements

This stone head has a gnarly case of the grumps!

Perhaps the most interesting part of this visit was learning about the Ireland that existed prior to Christianity. The Neolithic people were able to exist for over three milleniums based on their simple farming practices. They worshipped the earth, the sky, and the water, which changed based on whom they presumed was the most powerful force at the time. They left stones to communicate with the natural spirits, often to serve as a sacrifice.

The Wet Woodland Trail

View from the top of the park

The time spent enjoying these places made me feel grateful. Not just because I could enjoy my time off from the dairy farm but also because I could savor each place independently. I had time to imagine what each place was going to be like. I had time to travel there without restrictions. It could be as free and as open as I wanted it to be. I realize that this is pure luxury. I feel rich everyday despite my dwindling savings account. 

Following the Hart line to Modeligo

It was pouring down rain, I forgot my camera, and in a failed attempt to plan ahead, I had an invalid bus ticket in hand. This was not how I pictured the day going. I imagined that the day I ventured out to Modeligo, the village of my great-great-grandfather, it would be unforgettable in a good way. Well as luck would have it, that's exactly how the day did pan out.

On March 1st I ventured out to the coastal town of Dungarvan to meet distant relatives living around the area and to explore Modeligo. While the day got off to a less-than-desirable start, it quickly turned around. Thanks to a lovely bus driver, I was assured that I had a ride to and from Dungarvan so long as he was driving the bus. When I got there I was met by Marie, a descendant of the Hart line and my distant relative, and Sarah, her niece. They graciously drove me all over Modeligo so that I could see Michael Hart's origins. They both had cameras they let me use and the weather even cleared up.

Marie and Sarah, my wonderful guides, under our good luck rainbow

Our first stop was the graveyard at the Modeligo Catholic church. As we wandered around looking for the Hart headstones, the best kind of omen appeared. We noticed a beautiful rainbow above us. With the rain departed and the green rolling hills spread out before us, we knew it was going to be a lovely day.

The graveyard near the Modeligo Catholic Church

Grave of a Hart relative

Inside the Modeligo Catholic Church, Our Lady of the Assumption

After we toured the graveyard and made a visit to the church, we enjoyed some sight seeing while we ventured out to the original homesite of Michael Hart. On our way we saw some sights that I think truly exemplify the whimsical landscape of Ireland.

One of the places we came across was the ruin of Sleady Castle. These kinds of structures are quite common all over Ireland. The story of this castle goes that it was built in the 17th century by the powerful McGrath family. Phillip McGrath was reluctant to build it but his wife, Mary, was keen to have a new home with a moat and drawbridge to show off their wealth. Just a few years after it was built Phillip passed away and Mary was a widower with three daughters. In 1641, after the McGrath women invited local guards to dine with them, a castle employee helped a gang of desperadoes raid the castle. In the end, the women were bereft and forced to find a new home in a much more humble cottage.

Sleady Castle ruins in Modeligo

As if the castle wasn't fascinating enough, we also saw some adorable baby sheep wearing specially tailored raincoats. It was the cutest thing. We watched them frolic for a good bit before their momma started to get defensive. We also saw an old abandoned house that had a tree growing through the chimney. 

Baby sheep wearing raincoats!!! 

House with a tree through the center

Our next stop was to another graveyard. Here we saw another Hart relative's grave. The Hart family may be small in Ireland but their presence lives on through these memorials. 

Grave of another Hart relative

We then came to the old village that would have existed around the time when my great-great-grandfather was there. He had lived down a country lane still a good ways from this village in a very rural part of Modeligo. 

Being there it felt possible to imagine what life was like back in the 1840's. This would have been the center of life in this area and all of the residents would have been dependent on the local economy to provide for all of their needs. During the great famine this simply was not possible. The only transportation was a cart and donkey. The people in these parts could really only voyage to this village to get their necessities. 

The old village in Modeligo

During the famine, the population of Modeligo decreased by 33%. Those who were fortunate and brave enough made plans to set out for the New World. The night before the voyagers left they held a party with music, dancing, storytelling, and of course, drinking. Promises were made to send back enough money so that loved ones could join them but only the lucky few were able to follow through. America proved to be disastrous for some of the voyagers. If they didn't get sick or die in the emigrant "coffin" ships, they had to survive the harsh realities of big city winters. Some, like my great-great-grandfather, had to go through even more adversity as they homesteaded land out West. Despite all of these struggles, many of the Irish emigrants succeeded in finding new prosperity in the US. 

Dungarvan countryside

After our journey through Modeligo, Marie and Sarah took me to Ring in the area of Helvic, an Irish-speaking community. It is a beautiful place located near Dungarvan bay. This is the area where Marie and her daughter Gráinne have their homes.

The scenery of Helvic, an Irish-speaking community near Dungarvan

I spent a lovely afternoon at Gráinne's home with Marie, Sarah, and other members of the family. We spent time chatting and enjoyed a fantastic home-cooked meal. It was the first time I had ever tried yorkshire pudding or pavlova. The house was full of energy. I felt so fortunate that I was able to spend my day with such lovely people.

Gráinne's daughter, Caoimhe, and I

Sarah and I. We will meet up again when I visit Cork.

Me and Marie

Before Marie offered to drive me to Modeligo, I had thought about renting a bike to explore the village and Michael Hart's old stomping grounds. This is laughable. There is absolutely no way I would have gotten anywhere close. There are no street signs and the lanes are in remote places so I would have been up a creek without a paddle. Thankfully, I had someone to show me the way. I still cannot believe how kind it was of her to spend the day with me (not to mention that she recently brought me three hats that she knit herself!!). It was an amazing day and one that I will never forget. 

Farming is a Lifestyle

As the subtitle of this blog suggests, some farming is involved in the duration of my trip. For the past three and a half weeks I've been working at a dairy farm on the outskirts of Waterford City in an area known as Ballyhoo. Zip codes are nonexistent here. 

Cows grazing in the Ballyhoo landscape.

I'm sure you're wondering, what's it like to work on a dairy farm? For starters, it's crazy busy. The cows (not sure exactly how many there are but definitely over 150) have to be milked twice a day, in the morning and in the evening. Milking the cows isn't always as easy as it may seem. We use machines but you are still subject to the cows' temperaments. I have met some cows that I can only describe as demonic. Most of the cows are pleasantly passive but can still make a mess. At this point I think it's safe to say I have seen everything that can come out of a cow. Between the milking periods, there are the farm facilities that require regular maintenance, feed that has to be put together and dispersed, medicine given to the cows, and numerous other jobs. There is always something, or rather many things, that could be done.  

No milking by hand because it's the twenty-first century. These are the milk machines we use.

All of the work that is done is physically demanding. After my first week here every muscle in my body was sore. This was a complete 180 degree turn from the cushy office job I had in the fall. I've had to learn to use my body as a tool, which is new and different. It's taken a while but my body has adapted to the work routine, although sometimes still sore. Luckily I have the weekends to recover and explore the surrounding area. 

It's all about the cows.

Working and living here has given me a new appreciation for the hard work that farmers do. Farming is so much more than an occupation. It permeates itself into every aspect of living. It's in the clothes you wear, the food you eat, even the way you think. Everything is done in the most practical and purposeful manner. Since I've been working here, I wear two layers of clothing every day and most importantly, wellington boots. I eat plenty of brown bread and potatoes to provide lasting energy throughout the day. I think about where the cows will be when I'm doing a job and if they'll be in my way or if I need to be where they are. Everything revolves around the daily functioning of the farm. The farmers who are hosting me work seven days a week. They are extremely committed people. The spring and autumn are more intense because those are the calving seasons but fortunately there is time during the summer for the farmers to take a few breaks.

Wellies or bust!

Dairy farming is an important part of the economy in Ireland. There are approximately 20,000 dairy farms in the country. Considering Ireland's size (about the size of Indiana) it's very impressive that it's the 10th largest dairy export nation the world, exporting about 3 billion euro's worth of dairy products and ingredients each year.

One of the 2 million calves expected to be born in Ireland this Spring.

I was able to find out about this farm through helpx, similar to that of WWOOFing and WorkAway. It's a site that helps hosts and helpers make arrangements that provide the hosts with help on their farm or in their home and in exchange providing room and board for the helper. It's ideal for people like myself traveling on a tight budget.

The farmers I'm working for are incredibly nice. They answer all of my questions, even the really dumb ones. I've definitely improved since I started but it hasn't been without making several mistakes. Doing something you've never done before kind of requires mistakes. It's part of the territory. From making errors I've learned to be more mindful of my actions and listen more carefully. Working here challenges me everyday and it's still not over yet. I've got a little less than two weeks to go!