Dublin: A lesson around every corner

The rumors are true, Dublin is indeed a fair city. I had a grand time exploring the history and culture of Ireland's capital. One thing I liked in particular were the amount of free attractions! Traveling on a thrifty budget means one thing is for certain: free attractions are worth their weight in gold. Dublin has proved itself to be a hotspot for those with limited funds like myself. I spent a good 5 days here and rather than relaying what I did each day which might get a bit boring, I'll organize this post between my favorite free and not free attractions, ending with what I learned from visiting these places. The sights I visited are related to Ireland's history, literature, culture, and some nightlife. 

The Ha'Penny Bridge (named after the original entry price)

The best of FREE Dublin

Walking Tours
Thanks to the great folks at Hostel Culture: Dublin, there are three free tours available to visitors. I did the general walking tour which lasted about three hours (with a quick pint break in the middle) and covered the city's vast history from its days as a viking settlement to English colonialism to the revolution and more. By the end, I felt like I was an amateur historian (haha but not really). They also offer a walking literary tour and a craft beer tour, both of which I wish I could have experienced but will keep in mind for my next visit.

St. Stephen's Green
Public parks are the best and St. Stephen's Green does not disappoint. This is the perfect place to take a stroll while learning about some of Ireland's more rememberable characters. There is a map located in the park that helps you identify all of the statues and describes their contributions to Irish history. It's also a great spot to bird and/or people watch.

Constance Markievicz: born into high society, she became an Irish Nationalist, suffragette, socialist, and one of the first women in the world to hold a cabinet position.

Look at how majestic and casual the swans are!

The Museum of Modern Art

In a city as old as Dublin (give or take about a thousand years) it's refreshing to see contemporary works of art. Modern art may not be every visitor's cup of tea but it is guaranteed to liven up the day. If I had been allowed to take pictures I would have included them but unfortunately I was not. I do remember one piece in particular that said "Anatomy is not destiny" in bright neon lights. It was my favorite.

Outside of the Museum of Modern Art

Trinity College
The layout of this college was based on that of Oxford, not surprising considering this college was a gift of Queen Elizabeth. It's a great place to take a break from the busy bustle of Dublin's city streets. In the courtyard you can view the bell tower and watch students fly past you on their way to class.

The Bell Tower at Trinity

Chester Beatty Library

In this library you can spend a good amount of time sifting through ancient scripts from Asia and the Middle East. It contains one of the largest collections of Quorans in the world, not something you might expect to find in Dublin, as well as many other sacred texts. Besides the beauty of the prints there is so much rich culture and history to discover while meandering throughout the rooms. 

The best of Not-Free Dublin

Backpacker's Pub Crawl
What's a visit to Dublin without a visit to a few pubs? This city is loaded with them. Finding a pub in Dublin is like finding a Dunkin' Donuts in Boston; they're everywhere.  Luckily the good folks at HostelCulture (the group that does the walking tours) also put together this pub crawl for all the young folks visiting the city. 

The only picture I took from the night of the pub crawl.....

As I'm sure is no surprise, I thoroughly enjoyed this experience. Not just for the drinks but also for the company. I went with some of my new friends from the hostel I was staying in and we had a great time. It was also a great way to meet other people from other hostels in the city. If you want a very social experience, this is it.
Price: 12 Euro (includes welcome drink, other samples, and drink discounts)

The Book of Kells
It's free to visit Trinity College but not free to view the Book of Kells, which of course you have to do if you visit Trinity. Lucky for me, my friend Colleen is studying abroad at Trinity and she got me in to see it for free! Leading up to the viewing they've organized a wonderful exhibit that goes into each aspect of creating it, from the inks that were used to the nature of the scribes. By the time you view the book, you are well aware of its holy magnificence.
Price: 10 Euro (or befriend a Trinity student and pay nothing!)

After viewing the Book of Kells, you enter the Long Room. 

The Dublin Writer's Museum
For being as small as Ireland is, a tremendous amount of truly great writers have come from this country. This museum is the perfect place to learn about each and every one of them. Of course there are the big names like Oscar Wilde, W.B. Yeats, James Joyce, and Samuel Beckett but even those that never reached extreme popularity are celebrated within this museum. The day I visited there was a man performing different monologues from many of these writers. I paid to see his act and the admission price. I spent at least a few hours here and learned all I could about Ireland's literary contributions, so it was certainly worth it.
Price: 10 Euro

A beautiful Georgian ceiling at the Dublin Writer's Museum

Kilmainham Gaol
This jail serves as a chilling reminder of Ireland's painful history. Built in 1796, the complex housed up to five prisoners in each cell. Public hangings occurred near the front entrance gate. Many revolutionaries were contained and executed here. Many children were also held here, often for petty crimes such as "stealing" grass. Some convicts were shipped off to Australia from this jail. During the great famine, those who were poor, starving, and living on the street would be imprisoned here but often preferred it because they were provided some food. So much suffering occurred here.

A few views from inside the prison

While it was a heartbreaking visit, I could not imagine visiting Dublin and not seeing this place. So much of Ireland's history is tragic and that must be remembered to have a truly authentic and sincere experience. Institutions like this greatly contributed in creating the vast Irish Diaspora that exists today.
Price: 2 Euro (student discount)

The Guinness Storehouse
If there is one single good that defines Dublin, it is without a doubt Guinness beer. It's more than just a proud Irish product, it's an Irish success story. When Arthur Guinness created his famous barley based stout, he also contributed to the economy by creating a lasting business that would create jobs for generations of Dubliners. The Storehouse is a great way to really experience the beer. You learn all about the ingredients that go into it and the method behind the madness. There's a darkly lit tasting room that explains the proper way to savor the flavor. There are many exhibits to explore and walk through to learn about the history and culture of Guinness. The more you learn about Guinness, the more you learn why the expression "There's poetry in every pint." is so true. The finale is the Gravity Bar where you can see a 360 degree view of Dublin and enjoy a pint, courtesy of your admission ticket. 
Price: 14.50 Euro (student discount, ticket includes a pint at the bar)

Where dreams come true

Colleen, my friend studying at Trinity, and I enjoying the view and a few pints at the Gravity Bar

My time in Dublin was very fun to say the least but also very eye-opening. Dubliners and the Irish people as a whole have been through so much struggle yet they still manage a great sense of humor and a love for story-telling. My time at these various sights made me think about how we choose to experience new places. I believe it is so much better to engage in a way that allows you to feel everything, all of the light and all of the dark. Go to the places that are free and fun but also go to those that have a heavy past. Don't be afraid to ask hard questions sincerely to those who know more than you. Take the time to appreciate ancient texts and ruins. Embracing it all will reveal a new way of thinking, living, and ultimately being human.

Medieval & Mystical: A visit to Kilkenny & Wicklow

To the American eye, the sight of castles and monastic ruins is enough to make your jaw drop. To the Irish eye, it's a beautiful but familiar occurrence. The difference between the two is that one is rooted in a history that spans thousands of years and the other is not.

In Kilkenny, Ireland there are quite a few sights that speak to the breadth of time that has passed through this country. Cute, quaint, and positively medieval, you can expect to find a castle, cathedrals, and what remains of the wall that once encased the entire city. Kilkenny is also known for its successful design and crafts industries.

A glimpse of Kilkenny City

The Butler House in Kilkenny

Some of the cooler sights I saw included The Butler House and Kilkenny Castle. The castle here is no joke. Its history dates all the way back to the Strongbow reign in Ireland. It has stood the test of time thanks to dedicated owners in recent years who have painstakingly saw to the restoration of its former glory. With beautiful statues and parks surrounding it, it is a truly gorgeous institution.

Kilkenny Castle on the River Nore

After Kilkenny, we traveled up and out to the Wicklow Mountains.

Views from The Wicklow Mountains

Without a doubt, my favorite part of this day trip was the visit to Glendalough. Glendalough translates from Irish to English as "glen (valley) of two lakes." Way back in the day, we're talking 7th century, St. Kevin helped build up Glendalough as a successful monastic settlement. As the guide explained, St. Kevin was a popular scholar but ultimately a loner who would run off to various places in the Wicklow mountains to purge his soul of temptations. Despite these quirks, he was a remarkable man who built a remarkable monastery.

The Round Tower at Glendalough

Inside the monastic ruins

During our walk to get to the next sight, the Upper Lake, our guide warned us to mind the "faeries" who live in the forest. Celtic spirit is still alive and well all around Glendalough. It is in the way the moss sprouts from the logs, the wind chimes through the trees, and the landscape unfolds with every step.

Walking through Wicklow National Park

It was once we were deeper into the Wicklow National Park woods at the Upper Lake that I was truly left breathless. How do I describe how beautiful it was? How can I? I'm not sure it's possible but I'll try. It was like every bone in my body was metal and the magnetic pull of the Earth existed in the center of this lake. It was like having every bodily sense repressed, except for sight. It was like the first taste of freedom after being caged. In short, it was magical.

At the Upper Lake in Glendalough, County Wicklow

A lesson in day trips: come prepared. Know what you want to get out of it. I'll be honest, I was not prepared for my day trip to Kilkenny. In retrospect, it would have probably been better if I had thought of a hit list with special sights, shops, and restaurants to see. Of course, winging it can be fun too. I saw plenty of good stuff in Kilkenny and Glendalough thanks to no real prior planning of my own (thanks to Wild Rover Tours who did do the planning!). In the end, the only thing that matters is that you tried to see all you could.

Thoughts before Departing

There is a special sensation in departure. I think more so than in arrivals or even returns but of course, it depends on the context of the journey. What I'm talking about is that distinct feeling that overcomes a person when they leave a familiar home place to travel somewhere they've never been. No matter how much planning and preparation one does prior to the trip, there will inevitably be discomforts. Expectations have been known to disappoint. It is therefore tempting to revert back to the familiar, to second guess the new plans that have been set, or to feel at the least a bit emotionally confused. It's like a hodgepodge of excitement, curiosity, anxiety, and fear. This is the sensation I mean. It is a significant feeling, worthy of embrace and reflection. This is where it all begins.

Thanks to my Aunt Virginia for this image.

A Self-Made Man

Born at the start of the Irish Potato Famine in 1845, Michael Hart was destined for a life of struggle. At age sixteen, Michael traveled from his home in the small village of Modeligo, Ireland to seek opportunity in the expansion of the United States.

After his arrival at Ellis Island in 1861, Michael homesteaded the flatland of Kansas. The land he originally claimed in 1862 was unsuitable for farming so he slept in a dugout on the property until he could obtain the rights to better land near Delphos, Kansas. He lived in that hole of the ground for two years. His heart was driven by perseverance and the hope for something greater. His favorite expression was "Don't dupe any man & don't let any man dupe you."

Sadly, Michael Hart never spoke to any of his family in Ireland again.

Hart Farm Founders, left to right: Mamie (sister-in-law), Mary Eliza Hart (Michael's wife), Nellie (sister-in-law), and Michael Hart

The man pictured on the right is Michael Hart, my great-great-grandfather.  This photo was taken at the farmhouse he built for his family in the 1860's, which has served as another home to every Hart descendant since its establishment. Every generation has memories of growing up here. Throughout the different points in our lives, it was inevitable that at some point after a few years had passed the Hart family would all wind up together again on the farm. 

2004 Reunion, left to right: 11-year-old me, Aunt Ilene (keeper of the farm and family matriarch), my mom, and my brother.

I mention Michael Hart because his story has always inspired me and made me proud to be of Irish-American heritage. He is one of the reasons why I am making this endeavor. I hope to learn more about his past and the roots he set free.