Monday, February 16, 2015

Medieval & Mystical: A visit to Kilkenny & Wicklow


To the American eye, the sight of castles and monastic ruins is enough to make your jaw drop. To the Irish eye, it's a beautiful but familiar occurrence. The difference between the two is that one is rooted in a history that spans thousands of years and the other is not.

In Kilkenny, Ireland there are quite a few sights that speak to the breadth of time that has passed through this country. Cute, quaint, and positively medieval, you can expect to find a castle, cathedrals, and what remains of the wall that once encased the entire city. Kilkenny is also known for its successful design and crafts industries.

A glimpse of Kilkenny City

The Butler House in Kilkenny

Some of the cooler sights I saw included The Butler House and Kilkenny Castle. The castle here is no joke. Its history dates all the way back to the Strongbow reign in Ireland. It has stood the test of time thanks to dedicated owners in recent years who have painstakingly saw to the restoration of its former glory. With beautiful statues and parks surrounding it, it is a truly gorgeous institution.


Kilkenny Castle on the River Nore

After Kilkenny, we traveled up and out to the Wicklow Mountains.


Views from The Wicklow Mountains

Without a doubt, my favorite part of this day trip was the visit to Glendalough. Glendalough translates from Irish to English as "glen (valley) of two lakes." Way back in the day, we're talking 7th century, St. Kevin helped build up Glendalough as a successful monastic settlement. As the guide explained, St. Kevin was a popular scholar but ultimately a loner who would run off to various places in the Wicklow mountains to purge his soul of temptations. Despite these quirks, he was a remarkable man who built a remarkable monastery.

The Round Tower at Glendalough

Inside the monastic ruins


During our walk to get to the next sight, the Upper Lake, our guide warned us to mind the "faeries" who live in the forest. Celtic spirit is still alive and well all around Glendalough. It is in the way the moss sprouts from the logs, the wind chimes through the trees, and the landscape unfolds with every step.


Walking through Wicklow National Park

It was once we were deeper into the Wicklow National Park woods at the Upper Lake that I was truly left breathless. How do I describe how beautiful it was? How can I? I'm not sure it's possible but I'll try. It was like every bone in my body was metal and the magnetic pull of the Earth existed in the center of this lake. It was like having every bodily sense repressed, except for sight. It was like the first taste of freedom after being caged. In short, it was magical.



At the Upper Lake in Glendalough, County Wicklow

A lesson in day trips: come prepared. Know what you want to get out of it. I'll be honest, I was not prepared for my day trip to Kilkenny. In retrospect, it would have probably been better if I had thought of a hit list with special sights, shops, and restaurants to see. Of course, winging it can be fun too. I saw plenty of good stuff in Kilkenny and Glendalough thanks to no real prior planning of my own (thanks to Wild Rover Tours who did do the planning!). In the end, the only thing that matters is that you tried to see all you could.

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